Ingrown Hairs: Why They Happen, How to Prevent Them and What Actually Works
Why Do I Keep Getting Ingrown Hairs?
If you've ever had an ingrown hair, you'll know that the tiny bump can cause a surprisingly large amount of irritation.
They can be itchy, sore, red and sometimes downright painful. And if you're prone to them, you may find yourself wondering whether you're doing something wrong.
The good news is that ingrown hairs aren't necessarily caused by poor skincare or bad waxing technique. They're largely a consequence of the way a particular hair grows, the structure of the follicle, the way the hair has been removed and how your skin sheds its cells.
So let's get under the skin – quite literally – and look at what's actually happening.
What Exactly Is an Ingrown Hair?
A normal hair grows from a follicle beneath the skin and emerges through an opening at the surface. An ingrown hair occurs when the hair curls back, grows sideways or becomes trapped and penetrates the surrounding skin rather than growing normally outwards.
Your immune system doesn't particularly like having a piece of hair embedded where it shouldn't be, and it can therefore treat the hair shaft as a foreign body, triggering an inflammatory response.
This produces the familiar:
🔴 Red or darker bump
🔴 Itching
🔴 Tenderness
🔴 Swelling
🔴 Sometimes a visible loop or tip of hair
If bacteria enter the damaged follicle, the problem can progress to folliculitis, producing a pus-filled spot and more significant inflammation.
However, an important distinction is that not every post-wax bump is an ingrown hair.
Some bumps are simply temporary irritation after hair removal, while others are folliculitis or a foreign-body inflammatory reaction. Ingrown hairs are NOT the same as folliculitis.
Why Do Ingrown Hairs Happen?
There isn't one single cause, several things can contribute to ingrown hairs.
1. Hair Shape
Hair isn't always straight.
Curly, tightly curled or particularly coarse hair is more likely to curve back towards the skin.
If the hair grows out of the follicle at an angle, the chances of it re-entering the skin are greater. This is why ingrown hairs are very common in the bikini area.
This is particularly well documented in pseudofolliculitis barbae – the condition commonly known as razor bumps, where the hair is cut too short and curls back to pierce the nearby skin.
2. The Shape of the Hair After Removal
Shaving cuts the hair at the skin surface.
This creates a relatively sharp end which can make it easier for a curly or coarse hair to penetrate the skin as it grows.
Waxing is different because the entire hair shaft is removed from the follicle. The new hair then has to develop and grow from the follicle again, rather than emerging as a freshly cut shaft.
However, waxing can still be associated with ingrown hairs. Any method that removes hair from the follicle can potentially contribute to an ingrown hair as new growth emerges.
3. The Direction of Hair Growth
Hair follicles aren't all pointing straight upwards.
They can grow at different angles and directions, particularly in areas such as the bikini line, pubic area, underarms and neck.
This means some follicles are simply more prone to hairs growing back towards the skin.
4. The Skin Around the Follicle
Your outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, is made up largely of dead skin cells called corneocytes. Normally, these cells gradually shed in a controlled process called desquamation. If shedding is uneven or there is an accumulation of keratin around the follicle, the follicular opening can become more difficult for a new hair to pass through.
This is one reason why appropriately formulated exfoliating products can help some people.
But it is also why aggressive scrubbing isn't the answer. Damaging the skin barrier can cause more inflammation, not less.
Who Is Most Prone to Ingrown Hairs?
Anyone who removes hair can get them, but some people are considerably more susceptible.
You're more likely to experience ingrown hairs if you have:
Coarse or thick hair
Curly or tightly curled hair
Hair that naturally grows at an acute angle to the skin
A history of ingrown hairs
Areas where hair is particularly dense
Skin that is prone to follicular plugging or inflammation
Ingrown hairs can occur in any skin tone, but it is particularly common in people with curly hair and is more frequently reported in people with darker skin. This matters because inflammation can lead to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, leaving dark marks behind even after the original ingrown hair has disappeared.
If you've always thought: "Why does everyone else seem to get away with waxing but I end up covered in bumps?", it may simply be your hair and skin biology.
Why Does Exfoliation Help?
“Exfoliation” isn't one single process. There is physical exfoliation, where you use something abrasive to remove cells from the skin surface and there is chemical exfoliation, where specific molecules alter the way cells adhere to one another and encourage them to shed.
For ingrown hairs, chemical exfoliation can often be the gentler and more targeted option.
Physical Exfoliation
Physical exfoliation uses friction to remove dead skin cells from the surface. This can be useful for keeping the skin smooth and helping prevent a build-up of cells around the follicle, but gentler is definitely better when you're prone to ingrown hairs.
A very rough scrub, stiff exfoliating mitt or aggressive rubbing can cause tiny areas of irritation and damage to the skin barrier. This inflammation can actually make the problem worse by causing swelling around the follicle and potentially increasing the risk of irritation and ingrown hairs.
Think polish, not sandpaper! A gentle scrub or soft exfoliating cloth, used without excessive pressure, is more than enough. And never physically exfoliate skin that is already sore, broken or inflamed — give it time to settle first.
Salicylic Acid: What's It Actually Doing?
Salicylic acid is a beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) and is particularly interesting for ingrown hairs because it is lipid-soluble. This means it has an affinity for oily environments and can penetrate into the follicular environment.
Salicylic acid reduces the adhesion (joins) between corneocytes (dead skin cells) by disrupting structures called desmosomes/corneodesmosomes. These are essentially the microscopic “rivets” that help hold neighbouring skin cells together. This encourages controlled shedding of the outermost cells and helps prevent a build-up of keratin around the follicular opening, making it easier for a growing hair to emerge.
Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory properties, which is another reason it is so widely used in dermatology. If you're using salicylic acid on an area you're having waxed, check the product guidance and discuss it with your waxing therapist beforehand. Stronger exfoliating products may need to be stopped several days before waxing, as combining exfoliation with waxing can increase the risk of skin irritation or lifting. Your therapist can advise you on when to restart the product after your wax.
So Is Salicylic Acid the Best Treatment?
It can be very useful for prevention and mild ingrown hairs, but it isn't a magic cure. Also, more isn't necessarily better. Higher concentrations or overly frequent use can irritate the skin and damage the skin barrier which can actually make redness and sensitivity worse.
This is why a properly formulated product containing the correct amount of chemicals and intended for regular body use is preferable to attacking your skin with a strong chemical peel.
What About Glycolic and Lactic Acid?
These belong to the alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) family.
Unlike salicylic acid, AHAs are water-soluble and primarily work on the skin surface.
They can also reduce the cohesion between surface corneocytes, encouraging shedding.
Glycolic acid has a particularly small molecular structure, allowing it to penetrate relatively effectively into the upper layers of the skin. For someone prone to ingrown hairs, an AHA can therefore help keep the surface of the skin smoother and reduce the accumulation of dead cells.
Some people respond better to AHAs than salicylic acid; others prefer salicylic acid.
It's not necessarily about finding the best acid. It's about finding the ingredient and concentration your skin tolerates consistently.
If you're using glycolic or lactic acid on an area you're having waxed, check with your waxing therapist beforehand. Stronger formulations and professional peels may require a longer break before waxing.
What About Urea?
Urea is another useful ingredient that doesn't get as much attention.
At lower concentrations, it acts primarily as a humectant, helping the skin retain water.
At higher concentrations, it has a keratolytic effect, helping soften and loosen thickened keratin. That makes it useful where dry, rough or thickened skin is contributing to follicular blockage.
For people with particularly dry skin, a product combining moisturising and keratolytic properties can sometimes be preferable to repeatedly using acids alone.
Higher-strength urea preparations have a more pronounced keratolytic effect and may make skin more susceptible to irritation during waxing. If you're using a high-strength urea product on an area you're having waxed, check with your therapist about when to stop and restart it.
What About Benzoyl Peroxide?
Benzoyl peroxide is different again.
It isn't primarily an exfoliant but has antimicrobial activity and is widely used for acne and certain forms of folliculitis. So if your ingrown hairs are becoming infected or developing into folliculitis, an antimicrobial approach may be more relevant than simply exfoliating. It is important however to not assume every red bump is infected.
It is not recommended that you wax for a week after using Benzoyl Peroxide as it can dry and sensitise the upper layers of your skin, leading to increased risk of lifting. You must also wait 48 hours after your wax before applying to avoid stinging or chemical burns
If you're getting persistent pustules, significant pain, spreading redness or recurrent inflammation, it's worth getting the area assessed by a healthcare professional rather than continually adding stronger products.
What Should You Do If You Get an Ingrown Hair?
First, the official advice is don't pick, squeeze or dig at it. We know, however, that telling someone not to pick an ingrown hair is a bit like telling them not to look at a spot in the mirror!
If there's a hair trapped under your skin, the temptation to get it out can be almost irresistible.
So, if you are going to interfere with it, there is a big difference between gently freeing a hair that is already close to the surface and digging into your skin trying to find one that's buried underneath.
Start by Leaving It Alone
If you can resist the urge, give the area a chance to settle. Many ingrown hairs will eventually work their way to the surface as the hair continues to grow.
A warm, damp compress for around 10–15 minutes can help soften the skin and may make it easier for the hair to emerge naturally.
Once the skin has settled, an appropriate exfoliating product may also help prevent a build-up of dead skin cells around the follicle.
OK, But What If You HAVE to Pick?
If the hair is clearly visible at or just underneath the surface, the safest approach is to release it rather than excavate it.
Wash your hands and clean the area first. If you're going to use tweezers, make sure they're clean and sharp. If the hair has formed a visible loop or its tip is already exposed, you can very gently lift the hair out of the skin rather than pulling hard on it.
The important bit is:
Don't dig.
Don't insert tweezers underneath the skin looking for a hair you can't see. Don't squeeze the bump repeatedly to try to force it out. And don't stab at the area with a needle.
The NHS advises that a healthcare professional may use a sterile needle or blade to free a deeply trapped hair. Some clinical guidance also describes gently lifting a clearly visible hair loop with a sterile needle. That's very different from using a household needle to go hunting underneath your skin.
If the hair isn't easily accessible, leave it alone and let it work its way out.
Why Is Digging Such a Bad Idea?
Because you can turn a relatively minor ingrown hair into a much bigger problem.
Breaking the skin creates an entry point for bacteria and causes additional inflammation. Repeated squeezing and picking can also damage the surrounding tissue and increase the likelihood of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and scarring.
And there's another problem: the more you traumatise the follicle, the more inflamed it becomes – which can make the bump look worse and make you even more determined to attack it!
So if you find yourself repeatedly digging at the same spot, put the tweezers down.
If the area is becoming increasingly painful, hot, swollen, producing significant pus, or the redness is spreading, it may no longer be a simple ingrown hair. That's the point at which you should seek medical advice rather than trying to remove it yourself.
The Golden Rule
If you can gently free the hair without breaking the skin, fine. If you have to dig for it, it's not ready. If you're someone who gets lots of ingrown hairs, the answer isn't to become increasingly skilled at digging them out!
It's to work out why you're getting them in the first place and put a prevention strategy in place.
Should You Continue Waxing If You Have Ingrown Hairs?
It depends.
If you have one or two minor ingrown hairs that are settling and the surrounding skin is healthy, it's possible to continue waxing.
However, if you have multiple inflamed bumps, pustules, significant irritation or suspected folliculitis, continuing to remove hair from the area can perpetuate the problem. For a simple ingrown hair, there isn't a universal rule saying you must stop waxing for a particular number of weeks. Instead, look at the skin. If the skin is inflamed, sore or broken, give it a break.
Waxing healthy skin is one thing. Waxing directly over inflamed or damaged follicles is another. If you're regularly experiencing ingrown hairs after waxing, it's also worth discussing your waxing frequency and aftercare with your therapist.
Can Waxing Actually Help With Ingrown Hairs?
Potentially, yes.
For some people, switching from shaving to waxing reduces ingrown hairs because the hair is no longer being repeatedly cut to a sharp point at the skin surface.
However, waxing itself can cause follicular inflammation and ingrown hairs in some individuals. There's no honest answer that says: “Waxing prevents ingrown hairs.”
The goal is to find the hair-removal method that your skin tolerates best. For some people, waxing is simply not the right depilation technique for their skin.
For persistent ingrown hairs, dermatologists may consider alternatives such as laser hair removal, which reduces the number of hairs growing from the follicles in the first place.
How Can You Prevent Ingrown Hairs?
There isn't a foolproof method, particularly if you're genetically predisposed to them.
But you can reduce the risk.
Before waxing
✨ Allow sufficient hair growth between appointments.
✨ Avoid aggressive exfoliation immediately before waxing.
✨ Keep the skin in good condition rather than allowing it to become excessively dry.
After waxing
✨ Follow your therapist's aftercare advice.
✨ Once the skin has settled, introduce gentle physical or chemical exfoliation if appropriate for you.
✨ Moisturise regularly to support the skin barrier.
✨ Avoid excessive friction and very tight clothing, particularly immediately after waxing. This can irritate follicles, particularly around the bikini line, groin and thighs.
✨ Don't pick or squeeze bumps.
✨ Give the skin time to recover between hair-removal treatments.
If you're repeatedly getting ingrown hairs despite doing all of this, don't just keep adding more products. That's the point at which it is worth considering whether the hair-removal method itself is contributing to the problem.
What About Dark Marks Left Behind?
Sometimes the ingrown hair disappears but leaves a brown, purple or darker mark behind.
This is called post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). It occurs because inflammation stimulates pigment-producing cells and can cause increased melanin production.
PIH can be particularly noticeable in darker skin tones and can take considerably longer to fade than the original ingrown hair.
This is another reason not to pick or squeeze ingrown hairs. Preventing inflammation is much easier than treating the pigmentation afterwards. If you have persistent pigmentation, a dermatologist can advise on treatments appropriate for your skin type.
When Should You See a Doctor?
Most straightforward ingrown hairs aren't medically serious.
However, get medical advice if you have:
🔴 Increasing redness or swelling
🔴 Significant or worsening pain
🟡 Large recurrent pustules
🌡️ Fever or feeling unwell
🔴 Redness spreading away from the original area
🩹 A lump that doesn't settle
Or if you're repeatedly getting deep, painful ingrown hairs or scarring.
What looks like an ingrown hair can sometimes actually be folliculitis, acne, a cyst or another skin condition, and the treatment may be completely different.
The Bottom Line
Ingrown hairs aren't simply a consequence of not exfoliating enough, but the result of a complex interaction between hair shape, follicle anatomy, skin biology, hair-removal technique and inflammation. Some people are simply more prone to them than others.
The most effective approach is usually a combination of:
✔️ Appropriate hair-removal technique
✔️ Gentle, consistent skincare
✔️ Chemical exfoliation where appropriate
✔️ Avoiding unnecessary trauma
✔️ Allowing inflamed skin time to recover
✔️ Getting medical advice when the problem becomes persistent or infected
And if salicylic acid is part of your routine, now you know that it isn't simply “scrubbing the dead skin away”. Its chemistry helps loosen the bonds holding surface skin cells together, encouraging controlled desquamation and helping keep the follicular opening clearer.
Ingrown Hairs at Waxism
At Waxism in Pocklington, we see all sorts of skin and hair types, and ingrown hairs are incredibly common. If you're prone to them, please don't be embarrassed. We can discuss your hair growth, waxing routine and aftercare and help you work out what may be contributing to the problem.
📍 Waxism is based in Pocklington, providing professional waxing for clients from Pocklington, York, the East Riding of Yorkshire and surrounding areas.
Sources and Further Reading
This article is based on dermatological literature and clinical guidance rather than skincare marketing claims.
DermNet NZ – Pseudofolliculitis barbae: causes, treatment and prevention.
American Academy of Dermatology – Folliculitis: causes, treatment and prevention.
Cleveland Clinic – Ingrown Hair: Causes, Symptoms, Treatment & Prevention.
Nussbaum & Friedman – Pseudofolliculitis Barbae: A Review of Current Treatment Options, Journal of Drugs in Dermatology.
British Association of Dermatologists – Review of treatments for pseudofolliculitis barbae.
Arif – Salicylic acid as a peeling agent: a comprehensive review, Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology.
Post waxing folliculitis: a clinicopathological evaluation, International Journal of Dermatology.
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